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Driving north from Granada to Madrid, we passed through La Mancha, the sun-baked land in the heart of Spain. This is Don Quixote country, where Cervantes' hero lanced at windmills, thinking they were giants. As we neared the town of Consuegra, we spotted a row of windmills on the horizon and suddenly realized that Don Quixote might not have been so deluded after all: From a distance, they did indeed look like giants issuing a challenge.
Spain is loaded with such moments -- when the ideal of what you fantasize the country to be suddenly materializes in front of you. Almost every town and village has its own fiesta, which it's easy to stumble upon and join unannounced. A short walk through many a Spanish city can lead you past a medieval Arab fortress, a bar where tapas and wine are consumed with gusto, or through a park where a guitarist is practicing. Young lovers embrace in the ancient streets, and flamenco stars dance with a fury both rehearsed and passionate. Spain can be wonderfully theatrical and down-to-earth at the same time.